How to use the flash to make a natural light?

Your question is getting bigger and you can write a book again. The first two answers, Roc said to be reliable. Jump lights are limited by the environment. The color (color, material, and distance) of the wall (or reflective surface) is a big problem. The red-brick, unpainted concrete wall consists of dark gray and black walls. The reflective rate is a slag, but some of them can be used to create a very bright light effect. Because the surface is rough, most of them are strong diffuse reflections. Black paint absorbs strong light, but because the smooth surface can reflect some, the visual effect is very special. But if you only have one light (not yet powerful), it will be very limited. Because the power is not enough, the second is that there is no way to illuminate because there is only one light source. In common indoor environments, KT board, foam, PVC wallpaper, plastic sheeting, latex paint, powder wall paint. Each material has different reflective characteristics. If the location is a hotel, etc., the fabric decoration, glass decoration, mirror surface, etc. are a lot, plus the various light sources on the scene, this is called: “complex The light environment, a flash is really lacking in strength. Not to mention scenes, concerts, concerts, scenes, the environment is empty, there is no place to jump lights, and even people will not let you flash. The jumper is a good “entry-level technology”, which means it’s better than direct Auto direct flash, but it’s just a primer for flash applications. How to use the flash correctly, if someone tells you to buy a good flash to play “jumping lights”, completely irresponsible. The flashing light is also good, the light source is always bright, the basic purpose is to “illuminate the subject”, and the lifting level will become “build a better light and shadow effect”. The focus of photography in the field of aesthetics is to play with light and shadow. The “natural” nature of light is by no means the “face effect.”Since you only have one light, first recommend some accessories that can be played with a single light. 1. Spherical diffuser (borrow a treasure map). The effect is quite good in the range of not more than 2M from the subject, and basically achieves the effect of a white wall or a large-area reflector under ideal conditions. It can avoid problems such as wall distance and material, and it is very comfortable for the face of the model when it is backlit during the day. The price is around 150-1000, the bigger the more expensive. The disadvantage is that it is not easy to carry. The large ball cover with a diameter of 40cm is very nightmare, so you need a helper (preferably a good friend, because you can take him with a heavy one, first come with an 800mm telephoto, Then two barrels of farmer three punches, wow. In addition, because it is a spherical diffused light, it is also necessary to use the reflector/umbrella when gathering light. Playability is very high.


2. Because the ball cover is expensive and not good, then the substitute is a large area softcover (continue to a treasure) because this product can be folded, so it is convenient to carry a lot, the effect is slightly worse than the ball cover, but it is not bad, if it is not enough Soft can also go up to sulfuric acid paper and the like. Both square and octagonal. Light diffusion is slightly less than the dome


standard size of the softbox for the indoor shooting is 50X70CM. The large octagonal box is 1.2M in diameter. The price is cheap, dozens of ones, and the size of Jinbei is 100. You need a support frame, about 70- 80 or so can be. Remember to buy the kind of umbrella that can be put away, so good. The picture below is the standard lighting of a Bao women’s picture. You can see that four lights are used. . . Of course, there are also simplifications, and the side double lights can also be played. A single light is not impossible, just add a reflector on the side. The layout of the light requires you to practice and explore it over and over again. It’s a good day to have a beautiful gir
4. If you want a single-lamp configuration in one step, then the following group is recommended. The top row from the left contains four blades, a ball cover, a large soft mask (the front can be soft cloth), and a four-color cover ( The front panel can be changed color, radar, pig mouth, size honeycomb panel, and adapter bayonet. It is indeed a must-have for a family to take a wife, go out to take a wife, go to the streets to shoot a wife, and travel to shoot a wife. The domestic suit should not exceed 400. The picture shows the domestic sharp eagle. Things work in general, materials in general, but cost-effective. Daily use is still quite good. (Not advertising, I did not buy this, the in-depth play does not recommend this price of products, such as reflective materials should use orange peel type, this set is ordinary chrome silver coating, but non-professional users and deep players have to say, everyday household No problem at all, the effect is just.


5. What? Am I saying that one step is in place? Sao years, playing photography still wants to be in one step? The poor three generations of the paragraph have not heard of it~ You may also need a multi-head lamp holder because you can play this in the future


Talk about why this is done, why use these parameters. This isRoc HoThe effect of the street lights mentioned, the warm ambient light in the background and the light that illuminates the street all come from street lights. The photographer cleverly uses the ambient light, then there is only one task of the flash: illuminate the face of the person. In such a low illumination environment, the background should be bright and natural, and the image should be clear, and the high aperture and high sensitivity must be used. Therefore use parameters such as F1.4 ISO1600. First, the light metering sequence should be 1. For background metering. 2. Metering the face of the model. The difference between the two data should be that the model’s face is dark. Then 3. Set the fill brightness of the flash according to the shooting needs. And adjust the camera parameters to achieve the desired result. For example, the background is highlighted or dimmed. This is all based on your own shooting needs and ideas. Second, how to set up the flash I personally biased all manual, Nikon’s lights have not been used, only used Canon, Metz, and Sony. I feel that the settings are similar, so I won’t go into detail. In fact, it is based on the metering data given by the camera combined with your own needs for addition and subtraction. For example, the reflective umbrella is 5 feet away from the model’s face, SB900 is output at 1/128 brightness, and the focal length is set to 50mm

It is a color filter used to adjust the color of the flashing light. Various colors are available. Among them, orange, yellow and blue is the most commonly used. You can make it yourself. The colored cellophane can be used according to the different transmittance. Adjustment. You mentioned before that the flash of the night shot is “hard” and “unnatural.” A large part of the reason is because of the color difference between the flash and the ambient light. For example, the street lamp is mostly yellowish warm color, the flashing light is daylight white, and there will naturally be obvious color difference, which looks “false” because it is incompatible with the environment. It is necessary to know that the focal length of the flash is similar to that of the lens. When the focal length is large, the beams are concentrated. The effect and brightness of the diffused light are different, which is related to the illumination area. The same is true for the angle of the reflective umbrella. Both need to shoot and adjust. This is pure experience, I can’t give you the answer to your system. I can only say that the scene saw a temporary judgment plus test. Give a few of my own experience standards for reference: 1. The flashlight distance is based on 1.5M. The focal length of the flash lamp is set to 50mm, and the octagonal/circular reflector with a diameter of 110cm can illuminate the range of about 140cm diameter with 100% brightness, about 80% of the diameter of 160-200cm, and gradually decay outward to 3m diameter. The edge is approximately 40% of the center’s brightness. The diameter of 4m is about 5-10%. 2. On the basis of 1, the farther the object distance is, the greater the output brightness is. The required range of illumination is increased to make the flash focus wider or increase the distance between the umbrella and the object while increasing the brightness of the flash. The brightness required to be illuminated is increased, and the object distance can be narrowed or the flash focus can be reduced. In fact, these variables affect each other back and forth, please understand. The relationship is very similar to the rhythm between aperture and shutter sensitivity. 3. Due to environmental restrictions, the object area is close and the irradiation area is large (1.5m or more in diameter, such as a full-length portrait). It is necessary to add a second or even third light and use a wider focal length. Or change to a larger size softbox / reflective umbrella 4. Need to illuminate a small area of the object, you can use the pig’s mouth in the recommended set plus soft light/honeycomb. 5. It is very important to choose the right color filter according to the environment! 6. Reasonable use of the light attenuation at the edge of the umbrella! Create a gradient effect. Insert a question – don’t be afraid to use the maximum aperture, the so-called “shrinking two files to have the best picture quality performance” is purely for sharpness/resolution, unilaterally emphasize data from the photographic needs, this is a bad domestic habit. The charm of a lens is different in each aperture segment. The “meat” and slight dispersion of the large aperture are also good, and the edge imaging can also create a good vision. There were no PS filters in the 1980s, and film players specialized in grinding lenses to pursue soft focus. Not all of the subject matter is suitable for sharp cuts like a knife and ax. Many lenses have different hair colors under different apertures. This is far away, and you still have to think about it yourself. Each lens has different characteristics. It is the right way to make good use of it. The first three elements to adjust the aperture are to obtain the appropriate amount of light, depth of field, and degree of blurring. Others must give way to these three.

It can be seen that the environment is very similar to Figure 1, but the subjects are different. Since the object to be illuminated is from the box to the face of the guitar player, a 70cm box type soft light device with better gathering effect is used, and the corresponding flash output is adjusted to 1/8 because of the increase of the object distance, and after the character Use another flash to outline the outline light on the side. The main lamp uses a color filter and the fill light does not. The contrast of the two lights highlights the contour of the subject. Chestnut No. 3 chose this chestnut because it is not a reflective umbrella, but a soft umbrella. The light is the aperture of the subject through the umbrella: F5 ISO: 200 Exposure Compensation: 0 EV Exposure Time: 1/80 sec
This picture uses a double lamp, the main light at the center of the back of the umbrella is fully powered, illuminating the subject, while the second is using 1/2 power and using a diffuser to ensure a wide illumination range. It is used to brighten the environment (for example, highlighting the railings at the rear and explaining the environment). The subjects are all under the soft umbrella, so the backlight does not make the subject light harder, and the light beyond the range of the soft umbrella Outline the environment. Due to the close-up of the whole body, to ensure that the parts are clear, the photographer reduces the aperture to F5.

It can be seen that the lighting is not complicated, the photographer makes good use of the ambient light, and there are many places available for night lighting in downtown. Don’t always think that only the flash is the main light source. It should be noted that this photo photographer uses a longer focal length lens, about 12m from the model. Taking photos yourself requires safety, and the photographer focuses on shooting and there are too many chestnuts injured. Well, to sum up, there are a lot of fun games, and it also tests patience and strength. The subject now has lights, cameras, and flashers. It is good to add a light stand, soft light, etc. on the device, no trouble. So what is the most lacking? Have you noticed that almost all of my chestnuts have a “Human Lightstand”? When you come to shoot, your wife is photographed, you need a good friend to be a “Human Lightstand”

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